Barolo 2009,
Том Мареска беше напълно разочарован от тази дегустация през 2009 г., като посочи, че пропускът на винопроизводителите да разберат колко трудна е реколтата, е една от причините за това „мрачно“ представяне.
„Малко 2009-те оправдаха оптимизма за дълголетието си и повечето производители говориха за 2009-та като реколта за краткосрочно пиене“
Реколта 2009 на Бароло ще изправи потребителите пред някои сурови истини и някои сурови вина. Вкусих над 200 примера за Barolo 2009 в Nebbiolo Prima в Alba през май. По-голямата част от вината, които се предлагаха през петте дни на събитието, не само липсваха класически цвят Nebbiolo, но и не показваха почти никакви аромати или аромати на Nebbiolo.
Обичам Barolo и уважавам и се възхищавам на много от неговите продуценти за тяхната всеотдайност и яснота на визията им. И все пак трябва да кажа, че в тази реколта представянето на много от тях просто не липсваше, беше мрачно.
Разбира се, имаше и изключения: няколко производители - Джакомо Фенокио, Алдо Контерно, Пруното, за някои - се оказаха доста питейни Бароло. Някои - по-специално Пио Чезаре и Масолино-Виня Рионда - дори вярват в потенциала на виното си за отлежаване. Това мнение често се повтаряше от търговци и купувачи, които опитаха селекция от тези вина седмица по-рано от журналистите и от производителите (не слепи). Но за небцето ми - и според мнението на много журналисти, с които говорих - изглежда, че повечето производители на бароло силно са подценили трудността на тази реколта. Малко през 2009 г. оправдаха оптимизма за дълголетието си, а повечето производители говореха за 2009 г. като реколта за пиене в краткосрочен план.
Джакомо Контерно от винарната Aldo Conterno в община Монфорте беше един от най-откровените производители. Той каза: „2009 г. беше лозарска реколта. В края на август някои лози [Nebbiolo] вече бяха почти узрели, а някои бяха напълно узрели - почти 30-дневна разлика между тях. Това, което направихте за това, определи какъв вид вино сте направили. ’Обикновено оптимистичната оценка на Консорцио за реколтата тази година е много строга:
„Реколтата от 2009 г. ще бъде запомнена и с нередовния си модел на узряване ... По отношение на технологичното узряване, реколтата може да бъде поставена между 2003 и 2007 г. ... По отношение на фенолното узряване ... данните, открити в гроздето, бяха сравними с 2003 г. ... в тази реколта резултатите не винаги се подобряват чрез забавяне на реколтата. '
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