Тя не е всеобщо обичана и нейните вина са извън повечето от нас, но Стивън Брук е в плен на неуморимия Lalou Bize-Leroy
Lalou Bize-Leroy едва ли изглежда по-различно, отколкото изглеждаше, когато идваше в Лондон в средата на 80-те години, за да представи вината на Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, на които нейното семейство е частен собственик. Тя има лека, елфинска фигура, с ярки синьо-сиви очи и коса, която вече е сребристо руса, а не чисто руса, дрехите й са шикозни, но занижени. Напълно правдоподобно е да мислим за тази гъвкава, подредена фигура като отдаден алпинист - какъвто тя е била от десетилетия. Докато човек не направи пауза, за да помисли, че на нейната възраст тя може да иска да си почине. Но нито малко.
Бизе-Лерой живее и диша бургундския тероар. До 1988 г. основната й грижа беше семейният преговорен бизнес Maison Leroy, който тя все още ръководи, поддържайки избите в Мерсо, снабдени с милион бутилки фин Бургундия. Прадядо й я основава през 1868 г., но баща й започва да натрупва запаси от стари вина от 1919 г. нататък. ‘Все още имаме няколко бутилки от тази реколта за продажба.’ Да не говорим за всяка страхотна реколта оттогава. „Основното занимание на баща ми беше управлението на Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, така че той така и не успя да продаде вината, които купи.“ Bize-Leroy се присъедини към него през 1955 г.
Подобен опит и перспектива я поставят в страховито положение в йерархията на Бургундия. ‘Нямам договори с производители и всяка година започвам от нулата. Ако харесвам вино, купувам го. Ако не, не го правя. ’С такива огромни резерви, които да използва, тя не се чувства длъжна да купува всяка година.
Вината Maison Leroy са изключително скъпи, но тя се гордее с тях. Тя вкусва асортимента около веднъж годишно и решава какво да пусне, какво да запази. Често пуснатите са зрели стари реколти, бързо разграбени от колекционерите, особено в САЩ и Япония. Тя притежава и 4-те хектара Domaine d’Auvenay в St-Romain, които съпругът й Марсел Бизе е управлявал до смъртта си преди няколко години. Сега тя го управлява сама. Въпреки скромния си адрес, Auvenay има редица грандове в портфолиото си, но количествата са малки, а опашката за разпределение е дълга.
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Интересни Статии
