Йерархията на Бургундия датира чак до тази на Бордо, но се основава на наименование, а не на производител. Бенджамин Левин MW изследва дали класификацията по тероар е изпитанието на времето
замък времето на нашия живот
Две събития през 1855 г. установиха контрастни стилове за класиране на виното и последиците им отекваха оттогава. Най-известната е класификацията на вината от Медок: класификацията от 1855 г. не само все още доминира при вината на Левия бряг, но класификацията по цена е модел за всички вина от Бордо.
По-малко известно е, че през същата година Лавал публикува своя План Топография на Кот д’Ор на Бургундия, подробна карта на всяко лозе от Сантеней до Дижон, като ги класира Тет де Кюве, Премиер, Деуксием и дори Троисийм Кюве.
Това беше основата за картографиране на Кот д'Ор в повече от 400 наименования, когато през 1936 г. беше въведена системата за наименование contrôlée. Днес всяко лозе в Бургундия има своето място в йерархия, спускаща се от grand cru, до premier cru, до селското вино , до родовата Бургундия.
Нито една от класификациите не е била предназначена за различно от съвременното описание на статуквото, но и двете са поставени в камък. От 1855 г. Бордо е класифициран по цени, докато Бургундия е класифициран по тероар. В моя поглед към Бордо (Decanter, януари 2010 г.) класирането по цени не остарява добре повече от десетилетие. И така, как стои класификацията по тероар през вековете?
Развитие на цените
Всички класификации започват с цената. Първата класификация в Бургундия се основава на средната цена, която виното от всяка област е достигнало през 19 век. По това време вината се продаваха от преговарящи с малко внимание към отделните производители, а цените се основаваха на области, определени по-широко от днешните.
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Интересни Статии
