Terroir е една от онези думи, които всички във винения свят прегръщат, но какво всъщност означава това? И наистина ли има ефект върху вината, за който твърдят производителите? Рупърт Джой рови дълбоко, за да разбере
Terroir е една от онези думи, които всички във винения свят прегръщат, но какво всъщност означава това? И наистина ли има ефект върху вината, за който твърдят производителите? Рупърт Джой рови дълбоко, за да разбере
любов и хип хоп маями сезон 2 епизод 2
На юг от Condrieu в северната част на Рона се намира малкият апелатив Шато-Грил. Неговите 3,4 хектара лозя по стръмните склонове на естествен амфитеатър произвеждат малки количества вино от същия сорт грозде и почви като много по-големия му съсед, Кондрие. Но той е признат от 1936 г. като отделен променлив ток и се продава за много повече. Собственикът му Изабел Баратин-Кане подчертава, че оригиналността на виното, приготвено от неговите гранитни почви и изложението с южно изложение, е признато от векове. Но някои от нейните съседи се питат дали има такава разлика между тероарите на Шато-Грил и Кондрийо.
Идеята, че определени парчета земя произвеждат особено страхотни вина, не е нова. Философът Джон Лок, който посети Бордо през 1677 г., отбеляза „особеността в почвата“ на Шато О-Брион, която го отличава от съседите му. Книга на абат Арну, публикувана в Лондон през 1728 г., приписва величието на Монтраше в Бургундия на определена ивица земя на Кот д’Ор.
Това, което е съвременен феномен, е използването на думата „тероар“ за описване на идеята. Оригиналните му френски конотации бяха унизителни. До средата на 20-ти век вин терорите означаваха селско, земно вино с в най-добрия вид йокел чар и, в най-лошия случай, недостатъци. Вино с goût de terroir (вкус на тероар) е лошо направено вино, което има вкус на неузряло или гнило грозде. Идеята за тероар като по-положителен атрибут се появява едва след раждането на системата за променлив ток през 30-те години.
Всеки има своя собствена дефиниция за тероар. Може би най-простият е този на американския писател на вино Мат Крамер, който го описва като „някъде“. Повечето френски определения, включително това на INAO (органът, отговорен за системата за променлив ток във Франция), включват четири ключови елемента: физическите характеристики на дадено място (особено почвата и експозицията), неговият климат, използваният сорт грозде и ролята на човека .
100 сезон 3 епизод 3
Малко хора биха оспорили основната предпоставка, че вината получават определени характеристики от мястото, където се отглежда гроздето им, и че човекът играе роля в изразяването на тези характеристики. Но като се има предвид, че почти всеки производител на вино в наши дни твърди, че произвежда вина, които зачитат тероара, и твърди, че възприема „неинтервенционистки“ подход, потребителят има всички основания да се чуди какво означава тероар на практика.
вал чмерковски и румер вилис
Корените на тероар
Може би тъй като думата е подобна на „терен“, ние сме склонни да свързваме тероар главно с почвата. Това от своя страна може да насърчи схващането, че вината получават пряко вкус от почвата, в която се отглеждат.
Класически пример е Chablis, едно от най-разпознаваемите вина в света. Въпреки че е направен от вездесъщ сорт грозде, изразът Chablis на Шардоне е различен от този от който и да е друг регион. Най-реномираните вина идват от мек кимериджски кредав мергел, съставен от праисторически черупки от стриди.
Производителите и авторите на вино често правят връзка между характерния за виното кремъчно-йоден вкус и геологията на региона. „Как иначе можете да обясните йодираните нотки в Chablis, ако не със състава на почвата му?“, Пита Бернард Бийо-Симон. „Не можете да намерите този вкус в отглежданите другаде шардоне.“
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Интересни Статии
