Бордо 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Какво е това понг? ЛИНДА МЪРФИ изследва много злепоставения, неразбран, но в някои квартали оценен свят на Бретаномицес.
През първата година от винената си кариера налях вино на показ на топ бутилки от цял свят. На почивка от щанда обиколих стаята, за да опитам много от другите предложения.
Когато се върнах на масата си, винопроизводителят до мен попита: „Наистина ли нещо ви е впечатлило?“ „Шатонеф дю Папе от Шато дьо Бокастел от 1989 г.“, отговорих. Той се изкиска: „Трябва да обичаш Брет.“ Въпреки че не знаех какво е Брет - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-see) - по това време, аз обожавах земния, кожест, пушен бекон и подправка на Beaucastel , месест плод и твърда структура.
По-късно ще науча, че Brett, естествено срещаща се мая, която все още не е вредна за консумация, може да направи както добри, така и лоши неща за ароматите и вкусовете на виното, ще бъде гореща тема сред винопроизводителите, без ясен победител в дебата.
Лозарите го наричат „думата B“ и в най-добрия случай Brettanomyces могат да дадат на виното това, което мнозина смятат за положителни атрибути, които добавят сложност и дълбочина: земни вкусове на кожа от ръкавици, пушено месо, сланина от бекон, тютюн, трюфел, карамфил и други чубрици подправки.
И все пак, когато В се обърка, това може да придаде на виното обиден смрад на кошара, тор, мазилки, мокро куче, потни конски одеяла, миши екскременти и антисептик. Опасявайки се от последното, много винопроизводители по света правят всичко възможно, за да предотвратят замърсяването на Брет.
Други насърчават малко от него, за тази допълнителна унция интерес, но все пак трябва да работят усилено, така че дивата мая да не надвие сортовия характер и плодовитостта. Други, е, нека просто кажем, че ако чистотата е наред с благочестието, някои винопроизводители няма да ходят на църква. Онези, които твърдят, че са гот де тероар за неприятните си бутилиращи продукти, просто се оправдават за антисанитарни практики.
Приятел или враг?
Съществуват множество щамове - и теории за - Brettanomyces и пълната дискусия изисква микробиологична теза. Най-просто, има две съединения, променящи виното, идентифицирани с Brett: 4-етил гуаякол (4-напр.), Който допринася това, което се смята от мнозина за бекон и подправки и 4-етил фенол 4-еп), с неговите отрицателни мазилки, мокро куче и медицински характеристики.
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Интересни Статии
